During my 20's and 30's, while living 45 minutes from Santa Cruz, CA via the wicked ride on Highway 17 from Los Gatos to the beach, I surfed quite frequently.
I hate that drive! What a nerve wrack!
After 20+ years on Maui... I SHOULD be a surfer. Have still never tried it.
I DID go out on a boogie board once on the north shore, Ho'okipa... where they surf hardcore...
and as I paddled out... the waves got bigger and bigger.
I didn't know the trick of going UNDER a big cresting wave... and at a certain point I tried to go OVER a monster.
It was so steep and vertical, that as I went up... it bent my back backwards... and I heard something 'pop'. At that point I was in a trough between 2 monsters... and...
I turned and paddled for shore like a great white was after me!
I got their finally, heart racing and breathing hard for 10 minutes after, feeling lucky to not be dead or broken. Never tried that again.
I still hope to actually try real surfing here some day at the learners beach... and see how it goes.