So this lout used to live to surf as a kid/young adult. Then after many consecutive shark encounters, marriage, music, job, etc. I put it aside for the last 10 years or so.
Six months ago I took it up again with a passion. I had to get ready for an epic surf trip to Costa Rica. We went in late May when the waves are typically BIG.
We stayed in Playa del Coco. The first trip was by boat to Ollie's Point, a sick point break near Nicaragua. It was a solid 6' to 8' day and building as the day went on. Caught a ton of LONG and perfect waves that morning! Here is the only picture taken of me on a wave:
Apparently that was me on the other side of that one...